Scarlet Starts Slowly Coming Together Again

This week I only managed a little bike time, as I’m in the middle of some woodworking projects and still needed to fit in some quality time with family!

Having reattached the carburetor last week, I needed to reinstall the airbox and battery holder.

The airbox went in first of course, as it needed to be maneuvered back into place.

Once the airbox was back where it belonged, I was able to line up the battery holder and electronics.

I reattached the CDI before putting the bolts in.

The battery was put back on charge for now, as I haven’t started the bike again yet!

I’ll try to fit in a bit more bike time over the next week and see if the leaking carburetor is fixed at last and if she starts any easier.If the leak;s fixed, I’ll see if I can finally find that electrical fault and get all the lights and horn working again!


Forward Planning And Removing Sylvie’s Carburetor

Last week, I decided to continue my forward planning and finally rewrite the lists for the Honda projects.

I started by erasing the lists altogether.

I then consulted the transcribed lists ans set about recreating them

I added a battery to the list for Erica, as the one I’m using in her is not holding its charge well and I suspect it’s faulty.

I then made a list of parts that the bikes would benefit from that will be needed for tasks in the main lists and hung it on the back of one of the shed doors, so that I see it when I’m leaving the shed.

I found a list of shed tasks I had started some time ago that needed updating.

Since I haven’t managed any of the stuff on the list yet, I added to it and put it inside the the other shed door so I’ll see it when I’m leaving the shed too.

The new lists worked, as I ordered a carb kit for Sylvie. Since it’ll be arriving this week, I decided to remove the carburetor ahead of time and have it ready to rebuild.

Off came the seat and side panels.

I decided to put all the bolts into a magnetic parts tray that had all other bolts and parts removed first.

After removing the tank, I put the tank and side panels aside so they wouldn’t get dropped.

Next up was the battery.

With the battery out, I stacked it on top of my growing collection of dead or dying batteries – It might be time to drop them off for recycling soon!

I disconnected all the electrical connections ready to take out the battery frame and attached electrics.

I can never seem to remember which of the 3 wires go on the flasher can, so I  took a photo before disconnecting it this time.

I took out the battery frame with the electrical components still bolted on and put it with the other parts

I found the overflow hose for the battery had come off when I removed the battery, so I put it back on the overflow vent of the battery.


Next I removed the air intake and manoeuvred the airbox out of the frame. it went with the other parts.

I disconnected the choke and loosened the retaining nuts for the  throttle cables.

I moved the cables out of their mounting points

the disconnected the throttle cables and removed the carb.


Finally, I updated the parts list.

Next entry will most likely be either the carb rebuild or more teardown of the spare motor


Sylvie Is Seriously Flooded!

I took Sylvie for her first ride after replacing the missing breather hose joint. It was supposed to just be a quick trip to the nearest shopping centre but I’d had some issues with loss of power and stalling on the way there. I returned to find a steadily growing puddle of fuel under the bike!


Closer inspection revealed that the airbox and air filter were completely full of fuel.


The starter motor  was also not turning over and all the lights were also going out when I tried to start the bike. I stopped taking photos and went into damage control mode at this point. I firstly let my partner know I would be a bit later home than expected, then messaged a good friend and fellow rider, who came by with a spare battery from a different model bike, jumper leads and some fuel.

After disconnecting the recently reattached carb breather hose and cranking the starter a few times with full throttle, I was able to limp the bike back home.

While I haven’t had time to look at it since, I will be stripping and rebuilding the carburetor and running the parts through the ultrasonic cleaner at the earliest opportunity!

In other news, the missing springs from the centrestand should be arriving this week, so I’ll hopefully have a longer post (or possibly posts) over the course of the next week!

Filtered Air, Luggage Hooks And A Frame Bolt

I finally managed to track down the plastic frames to hold the air filter in, along with the filter itself and the sealing screws I didn’t know were missing in the form of a rather battered airbox from the local bike wrecker.


 I also managed to get hold of a set of mounting screws for the luggage hooks I bought for her a while ago.


I finally got the chance to install them on the Saturday before the gazebo disaster struck.

Firstly, the seat and rear grab handle needed to come off.

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Next were the rear “duck tail” fairings

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I tried installing the luggage hooks first to test out the screws.

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After realising that the rear fairings weren’t going to go back on over the luggage hooks, I took them off. I already suspected that the air filter frames weren’t getting in the airbox without disassembly, so I started to dismantle the rear sub-frame in order to remove the airbox.

Standard first step is to disconnect the battery.


Next I unbolted the coolant overflow bottle, noting that it was pretty much empty.


After removing the battery, the rear sub-frame needed to be unbolted to get the airbox out.


At this point I noticed something fairly important was already missing!
There should be a hex-drive or “Allen” bolt where that hole is. It seems the previous one had fallen out after I put the airbox in last time.


 I dismantled the rear sub-frame in much the same way as previously shown, pulled out the airbox, put the frames and air filter from the battered one in and put everything back together. Unfortunately I was in too much of a hurry to take photos of the process, as I was losing the light by this stage!

After screwing the luggage hooks in I realised I hadn’t taken many pictures and got a couple of the final result.

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Then I got a picture of Nix from her “good” side.


After a short week week last week due to shoulder pain putting me out of action for two days, I was keen to get the missing bolt replaced.

On my way home from work on Tuesday, I discovered the left side indicators weren’t working at all! As it was cold, wet and dark, I rode her home extremely carefully and checked the wiring yesterday morning before leaving for work. While I was looking at indicators, I replaced the left front one as I’d been given an advisory to replace it when she had her rego inspection. As I was getting ready for work, I once again forgot to take photos!

A hectic work  schedule prevented me from managing to pick up a replacement frame bolt until today, so I installed it tonight.


Finally, I got a shot of Nix from her “less good” side.


The last few things Nix needs will be adjusting the rear monoshock, replacing the missing “glove compartment” cover along with any missing bolts and finally giving her a good clean and polish!

I Know There’s A Carburetor In Here Somewhere – Scarlet Gets Ready To Ride!

So with Scarlet not running well enough to idle last time we saw her, I figured I’d see what sort of condition Bruiser’s carb was in while I waited for the carb kits to arrive.

Obviously, the seat and tank had to come off.

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A bit of WD40 to clean things up a bit and get the throttle cables out…

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Looks a bit rusty…

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A fair bit of grease on top of the choke assembly too…

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The battery box is bolted to the airbox, so out comes the battery too!

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More WD40 and elbow grease required here…

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Now that those are out of the way, I  can get to the carburetor. That’s gotta be it under all that grease and grime, right?

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It looks carburetor-shaped …

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After a bit of a cleanup with WD40…

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The same process was repeated on Scarlet.

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Once the battery box was out, I decided to attach the “lockable” tool compartment from bruiser’s battery box to give Scarlet a little more style…

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The choke cable wasn’t held on very securely on Scarlet. This bolt should have been a screw about half the length.

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Scarlet’s carb looked better on the outside, however…

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Bruiser’s carb was put to soak in degreaser.

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I was working on Rosie’s carb at the same time. It was much cleaner to start with!

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I had a look at the choke cables, as I’d had to remove the choke mounting bracket on Scarlet’s old carb.

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After being left to soak overnight, the replacement carb was turned up the other way and soaked again.

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After a thorough scrubbing outside with a toothbrush there was indeed a carburetor under there.

While the inside of the carb was unaffected, I won’t be using this type of degreaser on old alloy again in a hurry, as it seems to have stripped the outer coating along with the grease!

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The throttle seemed to be sticking a bit, so I put some rubber grease inside the throttle assembly at the handlebar end.

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Here’s a video of Scarlet idling after the carb replacement:

Full view of Scarlet from her good side.

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Shortly after taking the previous photo, one of the mirrors came off, so they’ve been replaced with the ones originally from Jack.

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I finally managed to get the right indicators working by swapping the front one with the spare front one I had from Bruiser, so she’s ready for a rego inspection now!

Since Scarlet is working and Rosie is still playing up. Scarlet’s key gets the Harley Quinn keyring for now.

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I’ll see if I can squeeze in a rego inspection tomorrow before heading off to Melbourne for the weekend – wish me luck!

Nix’ Noticeably Nicer Nature, Securing and Sprucing Up Scarlet

On Friday lunchtime, I visited the local bike wreckers again and left with a set of replacement mirrors, a spare left indicator and a seat in a reasonable state of repair.

I fitted the seat and right mirror immediately and noticed a considerable improvement in how she rode. If she has a personality, it seems to have improved dramatically since she has been registered and got some attention.

On Saturday I removed her damaged and mismatched right fairing.

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the damage wasn’t that major,so I’ll give it the same repair treatment I gave the other fairing panels when I have time.

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The replacement right mirror mount needs a good clean to remove the writing the wrecker left on it and possibly a bit of a touch-up on the paint.

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The mirror itself is fine, although also in need of a good clean.

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The left mirror mount is in much better condition than the old one.

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The mirror housing is a bit more scratched, so I may end up putting the original one back on.

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Although it looks repaired, the original right mid-fairing is definitely in better condition than the matte black one!

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While it has a few small tears in the pillion section, the replacement seat is also a definite improvement! I’ll probably re-use the strap from the original one once I can get the screws out that are holding it on. I broke one screwdriver bit attempting to remove it before I realised the threads on the screws holding it on seem to have been deliberately crushed at a certain point – possibly at the factory to prevent them from unscrewing from vibration.

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All up, she seems to look a bit happier.

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The left indicator is still yet to be replaced, I ran out of weekend so it can wait!

In between removing Nix’ right mid-fairing and waiting for the J-B Weld to set on the original, I worked on Scarlet.

First I fitted her new battery and swapped the right side of the toolbox with the one I bought for Eric, as this one has a lid.

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While it’s authentic for Scarlet’s year of manufacture I’ll probably replace it with Bruiser’s eventually, as that one can be latched and opened with a motorcycle key or screwdriver.

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Despite the mounting bolts being round and devoid of screwdriver slots, I managed to remove the broken helmet holder lock from Scarlet and replace it with the one from Bruiser. This meant that both of the locks fitted to her now unlock with the same key I use for her ignition switch.

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I had been bothered by the amount of rust on her handlebars for a while, as well as the mismatched handgrips after replacing the throttle assembly.

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I swapped them with Eric’s but forgot to get a photo during daylight, so took one tonight instead.

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Since all three of the locks fitted on Scarlet now matched, I decided to try my luck with fitting Bruiser’s steering lock, as Scarlet didn’t have one at all when I got her. After quite a bit of WD40 and cleaning out of the lock mechanism with fine wire, I discovered that Bruiser’s steering lock didn’t have a broken piece of key in it after all, just a lot of dirt and grit. I managed to clean the mechanism up enough so that it worked with after applying a little “elbow grease” to the key.

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Since this will be the final lock unless I replace the seat cowl, I tested it after fitting.
Left is locked, right is unlocked again.

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All up, not a bad weekend’s work – Nix and Scarlet now only have one major and one minor issue each.

Nix still appears to be slowly leaking either fuel or oil (relatively minor) and the rear shock needs adjusting or replacing (fairly major in terms of comfort).

Scarlet’s right front indicator still doesn’t work (relatively minor) and she’s still running too rich to idle without stalling (fairly major).

I went to ALDI this evening and found a special on Brasso and Silvo, so I grabbed a bottle of each. Once I get the problems above sorted, I’ll get onto de-rusting and polishing any bare metal or chrome I can find!

Wheels, Sprockets And A Chain (Plus Some Electrics)

On |Sunday afternoon I decided it was time to try a replacing the fuel hose and spark plug in Scarlet, put a chain on her and attempt fixing the lights.

First up, I put some chain lube on Bruiser’s chain and set about locating the master link. There turned out to be several of them!

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I found a section that had two master links in a row, prised the clip off one and removed the chain.

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Ae I will be re-using Bruiser’s chain, then plan was to remove the rear wheels and just swap the front and rear sprockets over until I get around to replacing them altogether, as it’s generally recommended to replace the sprockets with the chain.

Removing the rear wheel from Bruiser was easy enough, I just needed to remember to disconnect the rear brake and brake tension bar from the right side of the wheel.

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It was then time to remove Scarlet’s rear wheel. The first thing I discovered was that the mufflers I’d just put on needed to be removed again to get the wheel off.

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That done, I set about removing the wheel. THis turned out to far more difficult than Bruiser’s had been. One reason for this was probably that the axle had been put in backwards, as some of you may have noticed from the photos above.

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The small sledgehammer came in quite handy for pushing the axle through the wheel hub with another axle.

I compared Scarlet’s wheel with Bruiser’s and noticed a major difference in the style of sprocket and the mounts for it – I suspect Scarlet’s rear wheel was replaced with a similar one at some stage!

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I noticed the damage to the hub on Bruiser’s wheel and decided to pull Eric’ rear wheel off and compare it – if it was the same as Bruiser’s I’d just stick the sprocket on it.

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I had a go at removing the sprocket, then realised that it was on too tightly for me to remove without damaging the hex drive bolts and or standard nuts on the rear. I also noticed that the tyre was quite worn and the brake drum had no brake pads at all, so I decided I’d cut my losses and just fit Bruiser’s wheel to Scarlet.

During the re-fitting, I discovered something that would have made life a lot easier while taking the wheels off. There are little metal plates that fit into a gap in the swingarm that is covered by the chain tensioners. Removing these meant that I could assemble the entire axle and simply slot it into place!

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After that, the plates slip into the gaps and hold the axle in.

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The wheel slides back down.

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The chain tensionsers flip back up and hold the plates in place when tightened. Very clever design!

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Next up, I removed the front sprockets from Bruiser and Scarlet

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Bruiser’s sprocket is on the left, Scarlet’s is on the right.

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Even though Scarlet’s original front sprocket is in better condition, I’m re-using an old chain so I’m keeping the sprockets with it. I’ll keep the other one as a spare for now.

With the sprockets fitted it was time to fit the chain and a new split pin to keep the axle nut in the right place.

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With the chain done, I moved on to the fuel hose.

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At the top is the old fuel hose, which was a bit shorter than it should have been.

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The old hose is on the left, the new one on the right. A tighter fit should prevent fuel leaks at the tap and air leaks at the carburetor!

Next up, I moved on to the spark plug. The old spark plug versus the new one

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The new plug and fuel hose in place.

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I decided to check Scarlet’s air filter and found it in a sorry state – the foam filter element was missing completely!

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I checked Bruiser’s air box and found the filter there was complete and even nicely oiled!

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I transferred the filter to Scarlet, then set about swapping the throttle and right combination switch with the one from Eric, as the knob was missing from the light switch and it had the original handgrip.

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I had to take the tank off to disconnect the throttle cables and my new fuel hose just popped straight off, so I cut a slightly longer piece and made sure the circlips were properly fitted this time!

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As I had noticed a missing connector for the front wiring assembly that I can’t easily replace with the same connector, , I decided to make my own magical mystery cable to do the same job.

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By this point I thought I had everything connected, so I fired Scarlet up to test the lights. Scarlet now starts on the second or third kick most times with the new spark plug, so it was definitely worth fitting!

Strangely, none of the lights were working apart from the brake for some reason.After having another look at the cabling on Bruiser and Eric, I realised I had missed the connector for the left switch assembly. It turned out to be still behind the headlight case, so I pulled it through and connected it.

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After a quick test, I found that high beam wasn’t working. Checking the bulb showed it had a blown high beam element, so I swapped the headlights over and retested – Bingo!

For some reason the indicators still don’t work properly – that’s a task for later in the week, along with fitting the brand new battery, idle adjustments and/or carburetor servicing.