Khaleesi’s Sprocket Refuses To Budge And Sylvie Gets A New Footpeg

This week, I attempted to get Khaleesi’s front sprocket off with an old o-ring chain between the sprockets. I couldn’t fit the chain fully, as it was a little shorter than the length needed.

I had discussed my suspicion that the o-ring chain wasn’t likely to fit with Khaleesi’s owner and we’d decided against opening the sealed bag for the replacement chain in case it turned out the rear tyre was too wide. This turned out to be a wise choice, as there was absolutely no clearance between the old o-ring chain and the tyre.

I had no luck whatsoever with getting the front sprocket off, even with the old chain on the sprockets and the rear brake applied as hard as I could manage. As I don’t own an impact wrench and I’m not sure about the extent of the damage indicated by the cracked outer side of the bolt hole for the left side engine cover I discovered last week, I’ve advised her owner that he’s better off taking her to a qualified motorcycle mechanic.

Sylvie’s rear footpeg was looking a bit bare, so I had been looking forward to receiving the replacement parts for it.

The parts arrived, so I unpacked them ready to fit on the footpeg.

I didn’t realise when I ordered them that I’d  missed the plate at the end closest to the bike. The pillion pegs don’t get much use at the moment anyway, so I’ll order one with my next parts order for her.

With the new rubber cover fitted, the footpeg should at least stay in the folded position a little better!

That’s all I had time for this week. It’s my baby daughter’s first birthday next week, so I may not have free time for bike work. If that turns out to be the case, I’ll see if I can write a post about the work I did on my compressor recently that I’d intended to cover in a bonus post I forgot to write.

 

 

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Swapping A Footpeg And Work On Khaleesi Continues

Since the replacement parts for Sylvie’s footpeg hadn’t arrived and I needed to keep riding Sylvie, I checked the pillion footpeg on the same side and found the parts were all the same. I decided to swap them over, so off they came!

I fitted the parts to the front footpeg and folded the rear one up and out of the way again. I’ll fit the new parts to the pillion peg when they arrive.

Khaleesi’s owner brought over the spare parts I’d been waiting for, so I unpacked the rag from the external shift mechanism and inspected the area where the replacement cover needs to go.

At first glance, everything looked ok.

I compared the old parts with their replacements.

On closer inspection, it looked like there was some minor damage to the engine casing I hadn’t previously noticed, but not enough for concern at this stage. I’ll make sure I let the owner know and re-check the bottom of the engine for evidence of oil leaks.

I started fitting the parts. I had put the new gasket in place before I realised that I needed to remove the front sprocket before the replacement cover place will go on.

This turned out to be somewhat more difficult than I’d expected as the engine turns over when I tried to unscrew the mounting nut, so I took a break for the evening and will consult the manual before giving it another go.

I will be fitting a new chain and sprockets on Khaleesi too – hopefully I’ll have an update on that next week!

If my replacement footpeg parts and bearing kit for Sylvie arrive next week, I may have a few busy weeks ahead…

Organising The Pegboard And Starting On Khaleesi

This week, I continued organising the shed so I could get to my spanners and made another timelapse video in the process.

Here’s the shed from outside before I started.

A better view of the organised pegboard.

I found a few stray tools that don’t belong on the pegboard – some JIS screwdrivers that belong in the toolbox and a cheap set of spanners I don’t use on vehicles due to poor quality.

This was the mess on the floor in front of the bikes.

I had left a space for this spanner on the pegboard, as I knew it was somewhere nearby!

Much better!

Sockets in the box of bolts? This is what I end up doing when it starts raining unexpectedly!

This bolt had escaped the box altogether!

Another socket out of place.

With the wayward sockets out of the bolt box I finally was able to close it again.

The stray socket was reunited with is siblings.

More random bits and pieces on the floor.

The bolt box was relocated to the bench without losing the rest of its contents and the side-cutters and sockets left on top of it until they find a more permanent place.

The inside of the shed was slightly more easy to get to again at last!

I even looked a little less cluttered from outside compared to when I started!

With the shed more organised, I started looking more closely at the damage on Khaleesi.

The plates below the front sprocket came off first.

First was a single JIS screw that needed my large JIS driver to remove.

The other mounting bolts were 8mm.

Once the plates were removed, I disconnected the Neutral switch lead connector and the 8mm mounting bolts.

With the bolts removed, the larger part of the cover came straight off.

The part that had broken off was held on by a 10mm nut.

The nut wasn’t all that was holding it in place though. The oil seal around the selector shaft was badly bent out of shape and unusable.

With the oil seal out, it still wouldn’t move!

Some gentle persuasion with a ball peen hammer and a small pry bar soon took care of that.

I don’t own a MIG or TIG welder and I’m not very skilled with my arc/inverter stick welder yet. I also don’t have any aluminium arc welding rods, so I didn’t attempt to weld these aluminium alloy parts back together!

Fortunately, it didn’t look like there was any internal damage other than to the gasket.

I put all the parts and tools aside on a clean scrap of cardboard in front of the bike lift so they are out of the way until the new cover goes on.

Finally, I covered up the remainder of the external shift mechanism with a shop rag.

I’m waiting on a replacement cover, sprocket and chain from Khaleesi’s owner before I can finish work on her, so that’s all for this week.

I’ll continue sorting the bike shed next week. Hopefully some of the parts for Sylvie I’m waiting on will arrive too!

A Chain And Sprockets For Sylvie

I got another parcel last week.

 

The new chain and sprockets arrived, with a catalogue from the seller’s company.

After checking my chain breaking tool, I realised it had seen better days.

The 520 pitch pin was burred and bent from the last chain I riveted and the spring I’d replaced the original with hadn’t fared well.

I de-burred the pin with my rotary tool.

After checking the pin was straight, I found a new spring.

I reassembled the chain breaker and prepared to remove the chain.

 

After locating the master link, I discovered that the old chain had a clip link, so the chain breaker wasn’t needed to remove it!

After removing the clip, I found I couldn’t pry the link out.

Moving the chain to a different position and WD-40 didn’t help.

So it was off with the wheel and there was room to move the chain a bit more freely.

A bit of brute force and the master link was finally freed up!

The old sprocket was next to go.

The new sprocket went onto the wheel.

Back on went the wheel.

 

With the rear wheel back on, the front sprocket cover was next to come off.

The front sprocket had definitely seen better days.

The new sprocket wasn’t going on the spindle without a good clean first!

Once the oil residue was cleaned off, the new sprocket went on.

I got a shot of the new chain with the old for contrast, then fitted the new chain.

The rivet link was easier to fit with the ends of the chain on the sprocket.

The o-rings were lined up and the outer plate put in place.

Then came the process of riveting the new chain. First up, I moved the master link to the bottom of the chain loop and pressed the plates together with the chain tool’s pressure plate.

I ended up switching between several different configurations to get the master link riveted.

FInally I managed to get a decent rivet on the chain without over-flattening the ends of the pins.

I cleaned up the rust and oil from the front chain cover.

The mounting bracket got a good clean too.

The cover went back on and I cleaned up the outside.

Here’s the new chain with the tension adjusted and rear wheel tightened .

Sylvie’s list got an update – I’ll revisit this in the next post.

My stepdaughter had been helping me clean up, so I got her to stand still long enough for a couple of quick post-cleanup shots. Note the oily hands!

I got a lot done this week, so will cover more in the next update.

Basic Maintenance – Sylvie’s Slack Chain Is Tightened, Re-Oiled, And Her Flat Tyres Inflated

I’ve been a bit unwell this week, so haven’t done a lot with bikes. However I’d noticed a fair bit of chain rattle while riding lately, so this week I checked chain tension.

This chain has definitely seen better days!

First I loosened the axle nut and the chain tensioners

To make sure the axle was pulled back evenly on both sides, I used the depth finder on my vernier calipers.

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The distance from the left swingarm rear cover to the end of the thread was about 31 mm when the chain was at the right tension.

As it happened, the other side was at almost exactly the same distance!

I tightened up the axle nut again. Looking at the wear guide, it’s definitely time for a new chain!

To keep the chain going until I have the budget for a new one, I made sure it was lubricated.

Even at the right tension, there are a few stiff links. Hopefully with adequate lubrication, they’ll get a bit more movement back.

My partner had pointed out that the tyres were looking a bit flat, which I had expected  with the colder weather. What was unexpected when I found my tyre pressure gauge and checked the pressure was that the rear tyre was so flat that it didn’t even register below the minimum 5 PSI the tyre pressure gauge registers! The front tyre wasn’t much better at  around only12 PSI.

This was considerably lower than the recommended 33 PSI on the manufacturer’s sticker.

So I got out a manual bike pump and set to work. Once I was tired of pumping, I measured the tyre pressures again.

The rear tyre was considerably better at about 22 PSI.

The front tyre was still only at about 17 PSI.

As I needed to get some fuel for the next week and test the difference that correct chain tension had made, I decided I’d use the air compressor at the local petrol station (less than 1 Km away) to fill the tyres up completely.

I’ve ordered a centre-stand from Blue City Motorcycles to make replacing the chain a lot easier next time. I’ve bought parts from them before and found them to have excellent service and reasonable delivery times from across the other side of the country. Hopefully it will arrive soon!

CB250RS Parts Transplant – Sprockets, Chain, Side Panels, Mudguard And A Fuel Line

This week, I started with removing the rear wheel from the donor bike and salvaging the sprocket from it.

The sprocket and the wheel it came from…

 

And the sprocket after cleaning up with degreaser.

Next was the rear wheel from the “recipient” bike

  

This sprocket looked a lot worse for wear.

 

Almost like a saw blade compared to the donor one!

One of the bolts from this wheel had a 13 mm nut on it. I cleaned all 12 mounting bolts and nuts up with some degreaser and picked the best-looking ones

While the wheel isn’t in the best shape, I figured I can put a new tyre and new sprocket on it ready for when the bike needs a new chain. I put the better sprocket on the wheel as it had the better tyre before taking a short break for lunch.

After lunch, I compared my three front sprockets. I opted to use the right-most one as it had the least wear.

I cleaned up the primary drive shaft before fitting the sprocket.

The sprocket and the locking plate in place, fixed in place with the mounting bolts.

I opted to re-use the spare chain for now, after a liberal coating of “rust buster” spray.

Adjusted the chain tension, tightened the axle nut and fitted a split pin.

I popped the side panels in place and re-fitted the front mudguard.

 

I removed the front brake caliper from the “donor” bike and placed it in my bench vice to have another crack at loosening the stiff screw on the rear cover.

It chose not to cooperate, so I brought in the heavies – a small sledgehammer and traditional impact driver of the style from the days before they were all motorised. The recalcitrant screw soon saw the error of its ways!

Getting back to the chain, I realised the rear chain guard was a bit warped, so I retrieved the one from the “donor” bike and gave it a once-over with Inox.

Fitted and looking good!

The lower front chain guard was next. I fitted the plastic one too but I must have been getting tired by this stage, as I seem to have forgotten to take a photo of that step!

The helmet holder that matches the ignition, fuel and steering locks went on next, but was only fitted loosely as I’ll probably switch all the locks with Scarlet’s later.

Finally, I cut a fresh length of fuel hose to replace the piece that had been broken off prior to the parts transplant.

I haven’t started the bike again yet, I’m saving that for next week!

CB250RS Parts Transplant – Front Wheel Swap, Mufflers, Some Fiddly Bits, And Temporary Livery

I had a busy weekend reattaching things!

First  up, I wanted to swap out the front wheel as the tyre was quite flat, the spokes are rusty, and the brake disc looks almost as grooved as a record from the same era as the bike!

Fortunately the donor bike had a front wheel with a nice firm front tyre, very little rust on the spokes, and a brake disc in much better condition.

After removing the castle nut and split pin from the left side of the axle, I was a little puzzled as to how to removed the axle, as I hadn’t looked at the right side closely before. The axle is held onto the right fork with a similar type of bracket to those used to to hold the the handlebar to the triple tree and the  to hold  the master brake cylinder in place on the handlebar.

Once the bolts had been removed, it was remarkably easy to remove the wheel and axle

I removed the brake pads, as I was planning to transfer them to the other set of calipers along with the wheel.

Next it was time to remove the sub-par wheel and put it aside to think about what it had done

The front brake pad retaining pins had other ideas about my plan to replace the front brake pads, so I gave up on that for now. I applied a fresh coating of grease to the axle on the good wheel, maneuvered it into place and loosely fitted the castle nut.

After tightening the axle clamp on the right side, I secured the castle nut and replaced the split pin.

I cleaned up the spare speedo cable gear and found the speedo cable. The retaining screw was missing from the one I had fitted with the wheel, so I used the one from the spare.

Speedo cable fitted at both ends!

While I was concentrating on the clocks, I fitted the tacho cable too.

It was getting somewhat late by this stage, so I left further work until the next day.

First order of business the next day was to make sure I put oil in, so I don’t forget before attempting to start the bike again! I opted for generic supermarket 10w50, as it’s cheap and doesn’t have come with fancy friction modifiers and additives that make most modern motor oils unsuitable for wet clutches. Regular readers may remember these as the “attachments” referred to in the CBF250 Shop Manual while troubleshooting Jack’s clutch slippage!

After filling up the oil enough for a cold engine, I popped the black tank and the red duck-tail and seat on, to remind myself how close I was to completion.

I removed the chain from the donor bike and after a quick inspection and a shake I decided not to re-use it. The black crescents in the middle image are all the perished o-rings that fell out when I shook the chain gently a few times. The close-up on the right shows how few o-rings are left.

I decided to keep the clip-style master link as a spare in case of chain emergencies if I don’t have a chain riveter handy.

I figured even without a chain it would be useful to have a working rear brake again, so I started with the stay bar.

 

Moving further back, I saw the right side mounting plate was missing.

I realised the rear wheel stay bar wasn’t going to do much if the rear wheel wasn’t securely attached, so I removed the parts I needed from the donor bike.

I fitted the axle stopper plate, chain tensioning bolt and rear brake arm.

I fitted the rear brake rod – making sure all springs were in the right places – and reconnected the.rear wheel stay bar.

At last, it was time to fit the mufflers! First, I needed a pair of pillion pegs, as they also have retaining brackets for the mufflers. One was still  attached to the donor bike, so off it came!

I placed the mufflers on either side of the bike, ready to fit. I opted not to fit new gaskets just yet, as I’ll need to remove the mufflers again in order to access the rear axle when I fit a new rear sprocket. I also fitted the rear brake lever and stopper plate.

 

Right muffler in place.

Connecting the muffler to the cylinder head was trickier than I expected, as one of the mounting bolts is significantly shorter than the other. It seems the mounting plate on this side has been replaced with one thinner one than the standard part at some stage to compensatate.

I reattached the cylinder head mounting bracket and tidied the cables through it  while I had the socket wrench out.

Left muffler in place.

No problems with  connecting the muffler on this side, as the threaded rods are standard length on this side of the cylinder head.

I decided to mount the rear indicators after straightening the mounting hardware. First up were the grommets.

The metal collars for the mounting screws went in next.

The mounting arms were screwed on and earth wires run through the holes in the rear fender/mudguard.

Indicators were attached and their cables run through the mounting arms and through the holes in the fender/mudguard.

Finally the cables were plugged in and the luggage compartment replaced on the rear fender.

Finally, I replaced the tank, duck-tail and seat and called it a day.

Not bad for a weekend’s work!.

All that remains now before finally getting a roadworthy check are swapping the front brake calipers so the pads match the disc, then replacing the mirrors, fuel line, front mudguard, front sprocket, front chain guards/covers, rear sprocket and chain!

I’ll also be re-fitting some side panels eventually , of course!

I’ve also been researching options for restoring the original colour scheme and livery – I’ll post more on that in a future update.