In last week’s post, I had completed fitting Sylvie’s new sprockets and rear wheel and put her under cover for the night.
The next day, I had me trouble getting the new chain properly fitted.
The Ognibene chain was already the correct length at 106 links, and came with what I assumed to be two rivet-type links.
I fed the chain through the rear chain guard as I hadn’t bothered removing it.
I put Sylvie in neutral and looped the chain around the front sprocket and back to the rear sprocket.
I unpacked a new rivet-style master link from its zip-lock bag and confirmed all parts were present.
I fitted the rear o-rings to the pins and pushed the link through from the back, fitting the front o-ring and cover plate.
Having a brand new chain tool, I expected no trouble riveting the chain.
The new chain tool came in pieces and unfortunately came with no instructions. The pieces were labelled, so I assembled them in what seemed to be the most logical order.
Unfortunately after quite some time attempting to rivet the chain, I discovered that the riveting pin that seemed to be made of a softer metal than the chain links I was attempting to rivet. After bending the pin to the point of being unable to change pins in the chain tool and making no progress on riveting the chain, despite multiple further attempts using the tool in every logical configuration, I ended up taking to it with an angle grinder Suffice to say I won’t be buying another cheap chain breaker/riveting tool any time soon.
I ended up re-using the clip-style master link I had used to temporarily fix the old chain, although I used the new o-rings with it.
On closer inspection of the other new master link supplied with the chain, I found it was also a clip-style link. By this stage I just wanted Sylvie working again for the following week, so I left the one I had fitted in place.
I adjusted the left chain tensioner nuts until the chain was at the recommended minimum slack of approximately 20mm and measured the length from the rear or the swingarm to the end of the thread with Vernier calipers.
The distance was just over 27mm.
I adjusted the right chain tensioner nuts until the end of the threaded rod on it was the same distance from the rear of the swingarm.
Once I was satisfied that the the rear axle was as close as possible to perpendicular to the chain, I set my large torque wrench to the specified torque and used the 17mm socket to turn the axle against the nut.
Finally, I replaced the front chain guard.
I’m pleased to report that Sylvie has been much more responsive when taking off from the lights, overall power has improved and gear changes while in motion have even been a bit smoother!
The next priorities for Sylvie are a new rear tyre and re-covering the seat. Hopefully they’ll be in an update in the near future.
That’s all for this week’s update. Next week’s entry will most likely be a return to one of the project bikes.