Scarlet’s New Fuel Tap And Erica Gets Temporary Headlight Mounts

Scarlet’s old fuel tap had been leaking, so I wasn’t able to keep fuel in the tank. The replacement arrived last week, so this week I decided to fit it.

First I made sure the old tap was completely turned off and disconnected the fuel line from the carburetor.

I decided to run the hose directly into the nozzle from a fuel can to drain it.

The tank turned out to be basically empty anyway, so I removed it and put it on its side to remove the old tap.

The tap came off easily but left its inserts behind. I was able to coax them out with some needle-nose pliers.


The replacement tap. It’s not a genuine part but it’ll do for now.

New tap installed, Shiny!

The hose was a bit loose on the new tap, so I wrapped the outlet with teflon plumbers’ tape until I can get some thinner fuel line and popped the tank back on.

The mid fairings went on again next.


And finally the seat. Sylvie’s in the background and Erica’s in the foreground.

Speaking of Erica, the loose headlight had been bothering me.

I found some 13mm M6 bolts and matching washers in an assortment I picked up a while ago. They have 13mm hex heads and nuts but will do for now.

That’s all for this week. More on Erica’s headlight mounts once I get to looking at the wiring looms!



Scarlet Sprung A Leak, But Still Starts!

I had been smelling petrol fumes while in the bike shed lately – this week I found out why.

The fuel tap was leaking! Either I bumped it while putting the tank back on, the washer has perished or the fuel tap has simply seen better days – it is over thirty years old, after all!


The nut was a bit loose, so I tightened the it by hand and reattached the fuel line between the fuel tap and the carburetor.

While I was working in the shed, my stepdaughter came out to see what I was doing as dinner was nearly ready. She wanted to climb on Erica, so I snapped a shot of the next generation of motorcyclist.

Meanwhile, I’d taken Scarlet out of the shed to replace the battery before trying to kick-start her.

I’m pleased to report that she started with very little effort, so the carburetor rebuild seems to have worked!

Finally, my stepdaughter decided to try the back of Erica’s seat. She found it very comfy!

I’ll try to get some video of Scarlet running in time for next week’s update!

Bonus Post – A Fuel Tap And Tank Swap For Erica

After setting up the mats, I took a couple of days break and decided I’d wheel Erica out into the sun to test the threshold ramp. It certainly made getting the bike out easier!

I decided to take a couple of full-view progress shots.

After trying unsuccessfully to kick-start Erica, I thought the leaking fuel tap in reserve position might be related, so I set about draining the black tank.

While draining the tank, I removed the seat in preparation for swapping the tank over.

I put the glovebox cover back on the rear cowl so I knew where it was and it wouldn’t get stepped on.

The fuel tank turned out to have about 3 litres of fuel in it.

I put the side panel on to p of the seat, as I didn’t want to risk stepping on it either!

THis side panel still has all 3 mounting pins intact and I’d like to keep them that way if possible.

I unlocked the tank cover and removed the cap to help get the last of the fuel out.

While I was at it, I removed the fuel tank locking strap, as its lock matches the rest on Erica.

The tank was placed over a suitable receptacleand turn upside-down to get the old fuel tap off.

I put the fuel line aside on top of the side panel for safe keeping.

I then examined the old fuel tap. The filter, o-ring and reserve pipe seem to be in reasonable condition so could be re-used.

THe tank was sloshed around until all the fuel that was coming out was out.

Tee frame was looking a bit bare, especially with only one tank mounting rubber.

I figured I may as well put the blue tank on Erica to get used to it. Although it has no visible dents, it’s sorely in need of repainting! Compared with the fuel cap from the black tank, this one has also lost a lot of its paint…

I unlocked the fuel cap cover and removed the fuel cap. The interior of the tank seemed to be in pretty good shape.

I removed the locking strap in preparation for fitting the original one again.

I compared the bases of the fuel caps from both tanks. The black one seems to be in better shape.


After a short break to photograph the blackboard lists for the Hondas (more on that in the last post) I dug out the aftermarket fuel tap. While there are a few differences from the leaking genuine one, it still has the right overall style and will do the job at least until the bike is running again!

I fitted the lid and locking cap from the black tank to keep the locks matching.

The thread for the tap was nice and clean already.

On went the aftermarket tap.

The fuel line was replaced next.

I pulled out the box of assorted CB250RS spares.

I found the grommets for the tank mounting pins.

I re-fitted the grommets to both sides

Popped the tank on.

I put the worn fuel cap on the black tank to go with the spares.

I put a small piece of rag inside the replacement fuel tank to make sure the fuel going in from the old tank was as clean as possible.

After pouring in the fuel from the drain pan, I found very little in the way of visible contaminants.

I replaced the rag and repeated the process for the fuel in the fuel can. This fuel had almost no visible contaminants.

I removed the mounting grommets from the black tank.

I sprayed them with Inox prior to removal.

To make sure they last as long as possible, I applied rubber grease to restore some of their elasticity

Once wiped off, I put them aside in the ziplock back I’d originally stored the grommets  from the blue tank in.

I fitted the leftover tank strap on the the black tank and put the tank away with the other larger spare CB250RS parts.

I noticed some discolouration of the front mudguard and rubbed my hand over it without thinking. Looking down, I saw shrivelled-up blue paint flecks on the ground and realised I’d just rubbed off some paint that brake fluid had dripped onto from the leaking master brake cylinder. I’ll have to rebuild or replace that master brake cylinder bore repainting!


After all that, I didn’t manage to get Erica to start after all. I’ll have to have a look into the electrical issues and maybe try another battery.

In the next post, I finally make some progress on the seized spare CB250RS motor at long last!

Sylvie’s Carb Is Removed And Ready For A Rebuild

This week, I finally managed to spend some time working on Sylvie’s carburetor.

The first step was getting to the carburetor, which meant removing the seat, side panels and tank.

After removing the side panels, I made sure the fuel tap was set to the OFF position before attempting removal of the tank!

I removed the front fairings from the tank to prevent damage to them while the tank is not on the bike.

After removing the tank, I disconnected the main fuel lines from the carburetor.

The single electrical connector was next to come off

Followed by the choke cable

And the throttle cables

I loosened the connectors on the carburetor boots to the airbox and engine, then tried to maneuver the carburetor out,

The mounting bracket for the throttle cables got in the way, so I removed it.

Evidently I was not  turning the carb the right way, as after removing the mounting plate, I noticed the idle adjustment looked a bit bent. I removed it too.

One more twist…

…and the carb was finally out!

By this stage, it was getting late, so I made some room in the shed and moved Sylvie so I could put her away for the night.

I updated Sylvie’s to-do list while was in the shed.

Finally, I put Sylvie and her parts away for the night.

Today, I set about disassembling the carb and cleaning it – more on that in my next post!



The Parts Transplant Continues – CB250RS Motor Replacement

After removing the motors from Bruiser and Eric, it was finally time to install the working motor in Bruiser’s old frame.

First I collected the bricks from around Eric’s stand, as I would need them for raising Bruiser’s frame.

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I also needed to pick up the mufflers! I hung the right header pipe up next to the left one.

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There was room for the left muffler there too.

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I’ve ordered a right muffler but it most likely won’t arrive until next week.

Next I had to remove the seat, rear fairing and rear mudguard.


I found a safe spot for them on top of the shelves.


Next was the tank, so I could see what I was doing.

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I put it on top of Sylvie’s old rear wheel  (I should probably either sell that or get a new tyre and keep it as a spare!)


With a bit more room to work around the frame, I scooted the motor into a better position and moved the bricks near the legs of the main stand.

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After lifting the frame up and putting the main stand onto the bricks, I moved them back a bit so the motorbike lift would fit in better.

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With the bike lift in place, I put the motor on it and raised the motor into the frame.20170304_143555

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I gave the mounting bolts a good blast of WD40. Photos on the left are before, on the right is after.

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It took a bit of effort but finally I was able to get all the mounting bolts back in.

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I lowered the bike lift, took it out and removed the bricks from under the main stand.
A fair bit of oil came out considering none had come out when I drained the oil, so I mopped it up with an oily towel and put the oil tray back underneath.

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I decided the sump plug should go back in next.

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Next I reattached the gear shift lever.

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Connected the High Tension lead from the ignition coil to the spark plug.

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As there was no regulator/rectifier on the frame, I removed Eric’s

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I mounted the regulator/rectifier and gave all the electrical connectors a thorough spray with electrical contact cleaner.

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I’ll need to move the lights, switch blocks, speedo and tacho to the other bike, so I started by taking off the headlight. from the front of the housing.

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Since the headlight was working when Eric was run last, I took lots of photos of how everything was connected before unplugging everything.

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After removing the headlight housing, I disconnected the tacho and speedo cables and decided to call it a night.

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Both Bruiser and Eric are now just half-bikes. I’ll need to stop thinking of them as separate bikes soon!

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More on that next time!

Eric Donates An Engine (And Another Few Parts) – Another CB250RS Motor Removal

On Thursday evening, I started Eric and ran him for a while to heat the oil so it would drain better.
I also confirmed that the headlight works while he’s running, so there are less electrical issues to sort out than I thought!

When removing the sump plug to drain the oil, I discovered the sump plug was loose and had already drained the oil for me – or possibly I’d never replaced it after I last drained it!

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At least this sump plug had a crush washer that wasn’t crushed!


With the oil drained, I made sure the fuel tap was off and started thinking about which parts to remove.


The mounting bolts for the rear rails were first.


Followed closely by the single mounting bolt for the seat.
The tail fairing still has the now extremely rare vinyl decals on it!20170302_184637

With the seat removed from Eric, I remembered why I was swapping the motors over.


The seat had to go somewhere, so I put it on Bruiser’s frame for now.


The replacement seat mounting bolt was left on the seat until needed.


The rear rail mounting bolts were next.

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The mounting bolt removed.


Rinse and repeat for the left side!


The mounting bolts for the rear rails on Bruiser were just loosely placed long hex key bolts originally bought as part of a replacement screw kit for Eric’s engine. They are much thinner bolts and were never intended as a permanent solution.

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The rails definitely look better with the original Honda bolts in place!

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I disconnected the tail light and rear indicators…

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…and then removed the whole rear mudguard/fender along with the chopped-off piece of frame.

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I’m pretty sure this would fail a rego inspection unless the rear rails were bolted in place extremely tightly. As I recall, the seat shifted considerably when sat on and the cuts to the frame were visible even with the seat on.


The modified rear section of frame could possibly be welded on but I lack both the tools and experience for the task. I’m pretty sure J B Weld would be spotted and draw further attention to the fact that the frame has been cut in the first place. I also don’t have the budget or time to book a mechanical engineer to certify that any potential repairs or modifications don’t cause the bike not to be compliant with the Australian Design Rules (ADR)


I removed the number-plate holder and rear fairng/tail light assembly from the mudguard/fender proper.


The rear fender on its own, just before going into the parts box.


Eric’s rear shocks had a long dome-headed nut and large chromed washer. Off they came!

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With nothing holding them on, the rear bars were removed complete with indicators. The indicators looked a bit crooked!


The right rear shock on Bruiser’s  frame was quite rusty, while Eric’s was in much better shape.

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Off they came! Bruiser’s shock on the left, Eric’s on the right.


The better shock was mounted on Bruiser”s frame, along with the dome-headed nut

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I’d run out of room n my spares box, so the spare shock went onto Eric with the standard nut to hold it on at the top.


The left rear shock on Bruiser’s frame was in better condition, so only the nut and chromed washer were transferred across.

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Time to remove the tank!

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It turned out that the fuel line was stuck fast to the tap and the carburetor inlet.

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After a few attempts to wiggle it off, the hose broke at the carburetor end so will need to be replaced when I top up the oil after the parts transplant is complete.


The left side panel was still holding the tank down, so off it came too.

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The tank was removed from Eric, along with the single rubber stopper. I’ll need to track down another one from somewhere eventually.

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Rubber stopper transferred to Bruiser’s frame and the tank mounted temporarily.

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Eric is looking more like the half-a-bike he was when I first got him.


Back to disconnecting things from the motor!
First was the tacho cable.

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Next the High Tension lead to the spark plug.

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The crooked indicators had been bothering me, so I set about disconnecting them from their mounting posts.

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Next I removed the post from the rear bar, freeing up the mounting bracket.


Finally I removed the metal collar and rubber grommet.


RInse and repeat on the other side.


The metal collar and and rubber grommet have been shown still installed as a reference for reassembly.


All the right-hand indicator mounting hardware disassembled.


Both rear indicators and their connecting parts. Some of these need straightening before re-use.


Back to removing the motor again!
I removed the gear lever linkage.

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The front chain guard was next.


The front sprocket bolts and retaining plate came off next.

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Front sprocket was removed from the drive shaft and put aside with the other spare parts.

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I disconnected the wiring connector blocks

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Removed the retaining bolts from the carburetor sleeve

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The header pipe where the right muffler should be was next.

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The left pillion peg was next, as it shares a mounting bolt with the left muffler. It was followed by the muffler.

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The wiring connector blocks for the remaining internal electrics were disconnected.

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All the wires and the overflow hose were moved out of the frame, and the oil draining pan moved safely out of the way.

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The clutch cable was disconnected next.

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At last we move on to the mounting bolts! The cable here was passed through and put aside with the others still leading into the motor.

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The brake stopper plate was next.

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I put some bricks under the main stand to raise the bike enough support the motor on the motorbike lift, then removed the rear brake pedal.

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The bricks gave enough clearance to fully extend the motorbike lift and lock it in place to support the motor.


Once the mounting bolts were removed, the motor came out pretty easily!

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After having a break from working on the bikes last night, I’ll be installing the motor in Bruiser’s old frame and starting to transfer the rest of the parts over the weekend.

Scarlet Gets Some Attention At Last


I haven’t posted  any updates on Scarlet in a while for personal reasons. This doesn’t mean I’ve done nothing with her in the last 12 months, however!

Although I haven’t written about it previously, I have replaced the head gasket, adjusted the valve clearances, replaced the regulator/rectifier with a brand new aftermarket one and replaced the clutch friction plates and finally filled her up with fresh oil..

I also took my usual amount of photos as I went along, so these will be added in future posts.

Last weekend I decided to try starting Scarlet again, since she hasn’t been run for over a year.

This of course meant swapping the known working battery back from Eric again.20170129_093745 20170129_093805 20170129_094200

I had to open the cover to Eric’s tool compartment, as the top of it was  blocking the battery.


Scarlet’s looking great but the battery that was in her didn’t seem to be working.


I pulled the battery out to see if it was the problem.

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This is not a healthy-looking battery!


Swapped out for the one that I know works well enough to start Eric.

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Off with the seat to check wiring connections.

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Nothing obviously wrong here, so off came the tank to check further along the wiring loom.


Fuel tap to the OFF position


Disconnect the fuel line…


Pop off the left side cover…


And finally remove the tank!


Here’s the aftermarket regulator/rectifier. I’m not sure if it could be the source of the electrical problems.


Also looks like this clip has seen better days!


I reconnected the original reg/rec temporarily to see if there was any improvement. No change to the lack of neutral light, even after several kicks of the starter.


I figured I may as well at least replace the cable clip, so I grabbed the spare one from Bruiser.


It looked a little thirsty, so a squirt of Inox was applied and the residue wiped off with a rage.

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I gave her a bit more of a polish with Inox and found the summer heat was getting a little too intense, so I put her back together and called it a day.

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I’ll need to spend some time checking over the electrical troubleshooting section and wiring diagram again. I have some ideas on where to start, so will test my theories before next week’s update.