On Thursday evening, I started Eric and ran him for a while to heat the oil so it would drain better.
I also confirmed that the headlight works while he’s running, so there are less electrical issues to sort out than I thought!
When removing the sump plug to drain the oil, I discovered the sump plug was loose and had already drained the oil for me – or possibly I’d never replaced it after I last drained it!
At least this sump plug had a crush washer that wasn’t crushed!
With the oil drained, I made sure the fuel tap was off and started thinking about which parts to remove.
The mounting bolts for the rear rails were first.
Followed closely by the single mounting bolt for the seat.
The tail fairing still has the now extremely rare 2fitycc.com vinyl decals on it!
With the seat removed from Eric, I remembered why I was swapping the motors over.
The seat had to go somewhere, so I put it on Bruiser’s frame for now.
The replacement seat mounting bolt was left on the seat until needed.
The rear rail mounting bolts were next.
The mounting bolt removed.
Rinse and repeat for the left side!
The mounting bolts for the rear rails on Bruiser were just loosely placed long hex key bolts originally bought as part of a replacement screw kit for Eric’s engine. They are much thinner bolts and were never intended as a permanent solution.
The rails definitely look better with the original Honda bolts in place!
I disconnected the tail light and rear indicators…
…and then removed the whole rear mudguard/fender along with the chopped-off piece of frame.
I’m pretty sure this would fail a rego inspection unless the rear rails were bolted in place extremely tightly. As I recall, the seat shifted considerably when sat on and the cuts to the frame were visible even with the seat on.
The modified rear section of frame could possibly be welded on but I lack both the tools and experience for the task. I’m pretty sure J B Weld would be spotted and draw further attention to the fact that the frame has been cut in the first place. I also don’t have the budget or time to book a mechanical engineer to certify that any potential repairs or modifications don’t cause the bike not to be compliant with the Australian Design Rules (ADR)
I removed the number-plate holder and rear fairng/tail light assembly from the mudguard/fender proper.
The rear fender on its own, just before going into the parts box.
Eric’s rear shocks had a long dome-headed nut and large chromed washer. Off they came!
With nothing holding them on, the rear bars were removed complete with indicators. The indicators looked a bit crooked!
The right rear shock on Bruiser’s frame was quite rusty, while Eric’s was in much better shape.
Off they came! Bruiser’s shock on the left, Eric’s on the right.
The better shock was mounted on Bruiser”s frame, along with the dome-headed nut
I’d run out of room n my spares box, so the spare shock went onto Eric with the standard nut to hold it on at the top.
The left rear shock on Bruiser’s frame was in better condition, so only the nut and chromed washer were transferred across.
Time to remove the tank!
It turned out that the fuel line was stuck fast to the tap and the carburetor inlet.
After a few attempts to wiggle it off, the hose broke at the carburetor end so will need to be replaced when I top up the oil after the parts transplant is complete.
The left side panel was still holding the tank down, so off it came too.
The tank was removed from Eric, along with the single rubber stopper. I’ll need to track down another one from somewhere eventually.
Rubber stopper transferred to Bruiser’s frame and the tank mounted temporarily.
Eric is looking more like the half-a-bike he was when I first got him.
Back to disconnecting things from the motor!
First was the tacho cable.
Next the High Tension lead to the spark plug.
The crooked indicators had been bothering me, so I set about disconnecting them from their mounting posts.
Next I removed the post from the rear bar, freeing up the mounting bracket.
Finally I removed the metal collar and rubber grommet.
RInse and repeat on the other side.
The metal collar and and rubber grommet have been shown still installed as a reference for reassembly.
All the right-hand indicator mounting hardware disassembled.
Both rear indicators and their connecting parts. Some of these need straightening before re-use.
Back to removing the motor again!
I removed the gear lever linkage.
The front chain guard was next.
The front sprocket bolts and retaining plate came off next.
Front sprocket was removed from the drive shaft and put aside with the other spare parts.
I disconnected the wiring connector blocks
Removed the retaining bolts from the carburetor sleeve
The header pipe where the right muffler should be was next.
The left pillion peg was next, as it shares a mounting bolt with the left muffler. It was followed by the muffler.
The wiring connector blocks for the remaining internal electrics were disconnected.
All the wires and the overflow hose were moved out of the frame, and the oil draining pan moved safely out of the way.
The clutch cable was disconnected next.
At last we move on to the mounting bolts! The cable here was passed through and put aside with the others still leading into the motor.
The brake stopper plate was next.
I put some bricks under the main stand to raise the bike enough support the motor on the motorbike lift, then removed the rear brake pedal.
The bricks gave enough clearance to fully extend the motorbike lift and lock it in place to support the motor.
Once the mounting bolts were removed, the motor came out pretty easily!
After having a break from working on the bikes last night, I’ll be installing the motor in Bruiser’s old frame and starting to transfer the rest of the parts over the weekend.