How Not To Remove A Flywheel

Just a quick update this week, as I had other things to fix unrelated to my hobbies.

This week, I decided to try my luck with the flywheel puller and removing the flywheel from Rosie.

I started by making sure the thread on the puller was well greased.

Unfortunately it didn’t help, as the puller just wouldn’t thread properly in the stripped thread.

I did succeed in stripping the thread on the puller, however.

Next week, I’ll be working on Sylvie and maybe Erica or Scarlet, time permitting.

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Returning to Rosie – In Which I Chase A Dropped Part And Break A Socket

With Sylvie both not in need of immediate attention and generally running well, I finally spent some time working on Rosie this week.

What type of bike is Rosie, new readers may ask?

Rosie is a KLR650 I started a top-end rebuild on some time ago. Unfortunately, I wasn’t as careful not to drop any parts back then and I managed to lose a part down the cam chain cavity, so she’s been half-disassembled for several years.

The parts had been moved from one bench to another and had gathered a layer of stuff on top.

The first step was of course relocating said layer of stuff.

Rosie’s original fairings have faded to a rosy pink from the factory red, which led to her name.

One of the front side fairings has been replaced by a previous owner so the decals seen on the other one are missing completely.

I’d decided to take the side cover of the motor to retrieve the lost part some time ago but had never finsihed, so I resumed the process this week.

The cables attached to the stator ran behind the front chain guard.

After a quick reference pic, off it came!

 

I’ll give it a bit of a clean before putting it back on.

I rested the stator cover on the footpeg and the brake lever.

I carefully removed the outer gears and bearings.

  

 

The part that had fallen down looked to be stuck behind the rotor, so I set about preparing to remove the rotor.

The centre mounting bolt was quite tight.

It took a fair bit of convincing but I was eventually able to loosen it.

While the bolt seemed undamaged from the removal effort…

…I can’t say the same for the first socket I used on it!

 

I realised I would need a flywheel puller, so I repurposed the inner bolt from my old chain tool that had a damaged thread.

The thread on the end had been damaged by a misplaced spring when using it but a few minutes on the bench grinder took the burrs off.

It fit very well in the hole for the mounting bolt.Eventually I realised the flywheel puller needed to go in the outer thread though!

Fortunately I remembered that I had bought a suitable flywheel puller some time ago and had never used it!

This one had an M22 thread, which is the exact size I should have needed.

Unfortunately, I found was that someone had stripped the thread inside the rotor when it was removed at some stage in the past!

That’s all for now, until I figure out how to remove the flywheel without a puller!

I’ll have a look at what can be done on the other bikes if I can’t find a solution in time for next week’s update…

Filling In The Cracks – Work On Khaleesi Nears The End

This week, I finished up most of the work on Khaleesi.

I started by cleaning up the shed and sorting the pile of old parts from Khaleesi

I found my J B Weld and mixed up a small amount.

I filled the cracks in the bottom of the engine casing and put a thin layer around the bottom to keep the cracks from spreading further

I checked the charger and found that the connector was connected to a circuit that had  some sort of overload that didn’t work with my charger, so I took the side cover off and attached the trickle charger’s clips directly to the battery.

Finally I tightened the front sprocket nut to the specified torque and replaced the front chain guard.

I didn’t have any suitable oil to top up the lost oil, so I’ve let Khaleesi’s owner know and he’ll top it up.

The two remaining tasks are to to tighten the gear shift lever bolt and loosen the chain a little and she’ll be picked up next weekend.

That’s all for this week – hopefully I’ll have some time to work on my own bikes again in time for next week’s update!

Khaleesi’s Rear Wheel Replaced And New Chain Fitted

This week, I replaced Khaleesi’s rear wheel now that her owner has organised a thinner profile rear tyre.

The first step was replacing the sprocket carrier with the new sprocket on it

I was trying to prevent the disc still from scraping on the brake mount but hadn’t taken enough photos at the right steps of wheel removal, so I wasn’t entirely sure how the spacers and washers had been fitted previously.

I decided to try the spacer and its matching washer together at first.

I fitted them on the inside of the brake mount

I applied some fresh grease to the axle

The rear wheel was originally from a KR1S, so I had some trouble fitting the spacers and washers in the right order.

After swapping the spacers and washers around quite a few times, I got to a point where I was satisfied that the disc was scraping as little as was possible on the brake mount and moved on to the chain.

I removed the clip master link and put it aside.

I was having a lot of trouble getting the chain onto the front sprocket, as it seemed to be getting wedged against the engine. I realised this was because I had mounted it with the flat side toward the engine! After removing it and flipping it over, I no longer had the problem and the chain fit nicely.

I measured the length the chain needed reducing by fitting it without connecting the ends and moving the chain tensioners to the lowest point.

At first it seemed to need 13 links removed. As motorcycle chain links are in pairs, they can’t easily be shortened by single links.

I pushed the rear wheel hub as far forward as it would go and found that the 120-link chain needed 7 pairs of links cut out, for a total reduction of 14 links.

With all the trouble I had replacing the rear wheel, I took it off again just to check there was a bearing on the brake disc side. There was, so I think the KR1S spacer missing from the axle might be needed to fit it properly.

I removed the extra links rom the chain with my chain breaking tool after grinding the end of the pins with a carbide wheel on my rotary tool.

I lined up the chain on the rear sprocket and fitted the master link and o-rings.

I put the cover plate on, then clamped it with my chain tool.

With the slots on the pins clear of of the cover plate, I fitted the clip with the split end at the bottom so as to be at the opposite end of the clip to the direction of travel.

I adjusted the chain tensioners and fitted a split pin through the castle nut and the hole in the axle.

I bent the ends of the split pin back around the castle nut.

I had some spare rubber glue, so I glued on the loose LED strip indicator.

I found that Khaleesi already had a connector cabled to the battery that fitted my trickle charger, so I sprayed it with some electrical contact cleaner and hooked up the trickle charger.

That’s all for this week – hopefully I’ll finish the remaining work on Khaleesi in time for next week’s update!

Wiring Up Sylvie For Trickle Charging And Picking Up A Plethora Of Parts

Because I’ve been using the heated grips a lot more now that the frosts have started and have a fairly short ride to and from work, I decided to fit some wiring to allow a trickle charger to be connected in order to prevent a flat battery recurring in the dead of winter.

The trickle charger had a connector on the charge cable where the clamps connect.

I found a jumper cable that uses the same style of connector at my local electronics store.

I bought a couple of crimp connectors while I was there

I cut the cable in half, as I might be able to use the other connector later.

I stripped the ends of the wires and crimped the connectors on.

I took Sylvie’s seat off and found one of the reasons I’ve had trouble getting the clips that hold the sides on in the right place when putting the seat back on.

I trimmed a little triangle out of the top layer of padding.

I took the left side panel off to get to the battery.

Once the side panel was off, I attached the new cable.

 

The side panel went back on and there was hardly a trace of the mod.

I connected the trickle charger and the expected lights came on before I plugged it in, indicating both that the polarity of the cables was right and that there was still some charge in the the battery.

I then switched the charger on and made sure the battery was charging. 

I also made a day  trip to Sydney to pick up some CB250RS parts and a spare swingarm for Sylvie that a friend from the 2fiftycc.com forums I’ve traded parts with before had brought with him while he was visiting Sydney for other reasons.

The swingarm came with the wheel mounts and chain adjuster plates

This rack was custom-made to fit the a CB250RS, so hopefully I’ll get one of them road-ready again over the winter and I can use it!

The parts included a full set of original indicators, a brand new inner tube still in the box, a mirror, several 50 master chain links and an assortment of brackets and clamps, including the original headlight mounting nuts, which will be very useful for restoring the original electrical connections on Erica’s headlight!

That’s all for this week. Hopefully I’ll have some new brake pads for Sylvie soon!

Sylvie Demands a Sleep-In, Her Bearings Arrive And I Suspect The Front Brake Pads

Just a short update this week, as I was celebrating my baby daughter’s first birthday over the weekend.

Last Monday Sylvie refused to start until I gave her a jumpstart from the car after not being ridden for a couple of days over the weekend. This wasn’t completely unexpected, as I’ve been using the heated grips a lot more now that the frosts have started and have a fairly short ride to and from work. I’m planning on fitting some wiring to allow a trickle charger to be connected in order to prevent this issue recurring in the dead of winter.

The replacement front wheel bearing kit for Sylvie arrived this week!

I was quite impressed with the kit.

While these looked like excellent aftermarket parts, I decided to take another look at the front wheel before fitting them as the noise seemed to be coming from the vicinity of the front brake caliper.

The pads seemed quite worn, so I decided to hold off on removing the front wheel until I have ordered some new brake pads and possibly a new brake disc. I’ll have to check the disc thickness just in case…

That’s all for this week. Next week I’ll most likely be making a weekend trip to Sydney to pick up some spare parts I’ve been offered for free if I can collect them!
Hopefully I’ll get some shed time in soon as well.

The End Of My Holidays, Sylvie’s First Inspection Anniversary, And A Not-So-Smart Charger

This week I gave Sylvie some attention, as I’ll have finished my holidays by the time this post is published. It will also mark the first anniversary of my post about her successful rego inspection!

As expected, the battery had no charge after not riding for nearly a month!

This of course meant that the seat came off so I could access the onboard toolkit and take off the side panel to attach the charger.

I connected my newer “smart” charger.

It turned out that the charger wasn’t smart enough to recognise a flat motorcycle battery, as the fancy electronics seemed a bit confused by the apparently totally flat battery.

So I hooked up the trusty old trickle charger.

 

The lights indicated that it was charging, so I left it on for about 8 hours.

It seems to have had no problem charging the battery, as when I turned on the ignition again I found everything to be working as well as ever. I started the bike and let it warm up for a while.

Despite the temperature being 39-40°C (102-104°F, for any readers not yet using metric measurements), I put on my gear and went for a ride!

I’m happy to report that apart from needing fuel, no other issues came up.

That’s all for now – I’ll see what I can work on for next week’s update!